Nubuck Leather vs. Suede vs. Roughout: Understanding the Differences
When it comes to leather goods, you’re probably familiar with the classic, smooth leather that’s polished to perfection.
However, nubuck, suede, and roughout leathers stand out with their unique, velvety textures and subtle charm.
Whether you’re shopping for a new pair of boots, a stylish jacket, or a sturdy bag, understanding the differences between nubuck, suede, and roughout will help you make the best choice for your needs.
This comprehensive guide will break down the key characteristics, durability, uses, care, and styling of each material so you can make informed choices and care for your items effectively.
Nubuck, Suede, and Roughout Leathers
Each of these materials—nubuck, suede, and roughout—comes from animal hides but undergoes different processing methods, resulting in distinct textures and finishes.
- Nubuck is a type of leather where the outer surface (or grain side) of the hide is sanded or buffed to produce a soft, velvety texture. It is generally made from cattle hides and boasts a fine, uniform surface.
- Suede is made from the underside of the hide, known as the flesh side. This side is naturally soft, and after it’s lightly sanded or buffed, it creates a plush, fuzzy texture that’s popular in fashion items.
- Roughout is also made from the flesh side of the hide, similar to suede, but without the intensive buffing. The texture remains more rugged and raw, which gives it a tough and natural look ideal for heavy-duty applications.
The Differences: Texture, Finish, and Look
To the untrained eye, nubuck, suede, and roughout might seem similar, but there are clear differences in their feel, finish, and appearance.
Nubuck: A Smooth and Polished Look
Nubuck’s soft, velvety feel comes from sanding the grain side of the leather, the topmost layer of the hide. This process removes imperfections and creates a finely textured surface.
When you run your fingers over nubuck, you’ll notice a slight color variation from the short, dense fibers, which gives it a distinct, luxurious feel.
Nubuck’s appearance is often more refined and upscale compared to suede or roughout, making it a favorite for high-end footwear and accessories.
Suede: Soft and Fuzzy Elegance
Suede is typically sanded or buffed on the underside of the hide, resulting in a softer, looser nap. Its fuzzy texture gives it a warm, cozy feel, and it often has a matte finish.
Suede is highly versatile and popular in fashion items like jackets, shoes, and bags. However, it tends to be less durable than nubuck, as the looser fibers make it more susceptible to scuffs and stains.
Roughout: Rugged and Raw Appeal
Roughout leather retains a natural, coarse texture since it’s the flesh side of the hide but left unbuffed or lightly treated.
This material is highly durable and resistant to wear and tear, making it a top choice for work boots, military gear, and outdoor equipment.
Roughout often has a darker, raw appearance, giving it an unmistakably rugged look that appeals to those who prioritize functionality.
Durability and Longevity
The durability of nubuck, suede, and roughout depends on factors like the quality of the hide and the level of care each material receives.
Nubuck
While nubuck is durable, the sanding process makes it more vulnerable to stains, scratches, and scuffs.
Its surface isn’t as tough as full-grain leather, so it requires regular maintenance to look its best. Despite this, nubuck leather can last a long time if treated with protective sprays and cleaned properly.
Suede
Suede has a delicate finish that’s prone to absorbing moisture and dirt, which can lead to permanent stains if not treated. Suede isn’t ideal for harsh environments, but with proper care, it can be a lasting material for fashion items.
Roughout
Of the three, roughout is by far the most resilient. The natural grain and unprocessed fibers give it exceptional strength, making it ideal for rugged applications.
With minimal care, roughout can withstand heavy wear and tear, making it a go-to choice for anyone who needs tough, dependable leather goods.
Practical Applications and Best Uses
Understanding the unique characteristics of each material can help you determine which one is best suited for your lifestyle and needs.
Nubuck: Versatile for Style
Nubuck leather is often used in higher-end items where a refined appearance is desired. You’ll see it in stylish boots, handbags, and jackets that aim to offer both comfort and sophistication.
While it’s less suited for extremely rough environments, nubuck can handle moderate outdoor wear if properly protected.
Suede: Fashion Forward
Due to its soft and appealing texture, suede is a popular choice for clothing and accessories, especially those designed for style rather than durability.
Suede jackets, boots, and gloves provide a luxurious, fashionable look that’s great for casual outings or events. However, because suede is sensitive to water, it’s best to avoid wearing it in wet or muddy conditions.
Roughout: The Workhorse Material
If you need leather that will stand up to harsh conditions, roughout is the way to go. It’s widely used in heavy-duty boots, military gear, and outdoor equipment.
This leather holds up well against moisture, abrasions, and harsh weather, making it perfect for working in tough environments or going on outdoor adventures.
Caring for Nubuck, Suede, and Roughout Leather
Proper care is crucial to maintain the appearance and longevity of nubuck, suede, and roughout leathers. Here are specific maintenance tips for each type.
Nubuck Care
- Brush Regularly: Use a nubuck brush to remove dirt and restore the nap.
- Apply a Protectant Spray: Using a waterproof or stain-resistant spray can help protect nubuck from water and stains.
- Remove Stains Promptly: For minor stains, a nubuck eraser or a soft cloth with a small amount of leather cleaner can be effective.
Suede Care
- Invest in a Suede Brush: A suede brush helps maintain the texture by removing dirt and lifting the fibers.
- Use a Waterproofing Spray: This step is crucial, as suede can easily become stained or damaged by water.
- Treat Stains Carefully: For liquid spills, blotting with a clean cloth can minimize damage. For oil-based stains, apply talcum powder to absorb the oil, then brush it off once dry.
Roughout Care
- Use a Stiff Brush: A stiff brush can remove dirt and debris without damaging the leather.
- Minimal Treatment Needed: Roughout’s rugged nature means it doesn’t need as much maintenance, but an occasional conditioning with a specialized roughout conditioner will enhance its longevity.
- Spot Clean as Needed: For tough stains, lightly dampen a cloth and gently rub the area.
Comparing Cost and Accessibility
Nubuck, suede, and roughout leathers vary in price due to the manufacturing processes and demand for each material.
- Nubuck is generally more expensive because it’s made from top-grain leather and requires careful sanding. Its sophisticated look and feel contribute to a higher price point, making it a premium choice.
- Suede tends to be more affordable than nubuck since it uses the underside of the hide, which is less in demand. However, high-quality suede items can still be pricey, especially when made from lamb or calf hides.
- Roughout is often comparable to regular leather in price, as it doesn’t require intensive processing. Its affordability combined with durability makes it a cost-effective choice for those who need tough, functional leather goods.
Styling Tips
These leathers can enhance your wardrobe and accessories in unique ways, depending on the look you want to achieve.
Nubuck: Casual to Classy
Nubuck is a great option if you’re aiming for a look that combines ruggedness with sophistication.
For a casual look, pair nubuck boots with jeans and a casual shirt. For something more refined, a nubuck jacket or handbag can add an upscale, polished touch to your outfit.
Suede: Effortlessly Chic
Suede can elevate any outfit with its soft and luxurious look. Suede jackets, for example, offer a classic appeal, especially when paired with denim or other natural fabrics.
Suede shoes or bags are also timeless choices for adding a touch of elegance to casual or formal wear.
Roughout: Utilitarian Cool
If you’re drawn to a rugged or military-inspired style, roughout leather will suit your aesthetic.
A pair of roughout boots or a roughout jacket can complement utility pants, flannel shirts, and other functional apparel. Roughout’s durable look will appeal to those who prefer an understated, no-nonsense style.
Conclusion
Nubuck, suede, and roughout leathers each have unique qualities, and choosing the right one comes down to considering your style preferences, intended use, and maintenance commitment.
Nubuck is perfect if you want a balance between style and durability, while suede offers unmatched softness for those who prioritize elegance.
Roughout, on the other hand, is a solid choice if you need a material that’s ready to take on tough conditions.
Understanding these differences will allow you to choose the leather that best aligns with your lifestyle. With the right care, any of these materials can serve as a lasting and stylish addition to your wardrobe or gear collection.
Whether you’re stepping out in a pair of nubuck boots, donning a suede jacket, or working in rugged roughout leather, each choice offers a distinct experience and aesthetic that enhances both form and function.